Tree Care Tips

Choice

Having the right tree for the space is the best way to avoid problems with your tree. When selecting your tree, consider the function it serves, such as ornamental, screening, or shade. Choose a tree that is native to your area. You can get great advice from local arborists and master gardeners on tree choice. The local factors such as available space, shade levels, and soil conditions will impact your choice. If possible, select your tree personally from the nursery to ensure it’s a good specimen lacking any major defects.

Planting

Proper planting can prevent several difficult problems in the future. Most important is to find the trunk flare of your tree and ensure it is exposed and at the soil line at planting. The trunk flare of trees is often buried under several inches of soil, which needs to be removed prior to planting.

Watering

Especially when grown in lawns and in the poor soils found in developed areas, water availability is often the largest limiting factor in the development and vigor of trees. Deciduous trees (most trees that drop their leaves) will quickly be stressed by dry soils and may need supplemental watering during the growing season. If the top 2-3 inches of soil around your tree are dry, it’s time to water. Using a soaker hose or drip bag, apply one to three gallons of water for every inch of trunk diameter the tree has about four feet from the ground.

Mulching

Trees are adapted to live in soils covered by a thick layer of natural debris such as leaves and twigs. In urban settings, the best substitute for this is mulch made from shredded wood. This mulch helps regulate water and temperature in the soil, deposit organic matter into the soil, provide protection against runoff and compaction, and can host beneficial microorganisms. It also is a great alternative to turfgrass, which directly competes against trees for water and nutrients. Mulch should be spread in a 2-3 inch thick layer under the entire canopy of the tree or as far out as you can tolerate.

Check-ups

A local certified arborist should be willing to check on your tree every few years. An expert assessment can help you understand the needs of your tree and anticipate any expenses related to addressing problems with it in advance. Whether and when your tree needs pruning, soil amendments like fertilizer, or mitigation of any hazards that may exist.

Sample your soil

Your local arborist or cooperative extension service can help you get the soil around the tree analyzed. For optimal health, your soil may require amendments to adjust the acidity, quantity of organic matter, or availability of various nutrients. A report will be provided to you after your sample is analyzed that will instruct you on if and how your soil needs to be amended.

Plant natives

Even if your tree is not native, planting species native to your area around the tree will greatly increase the number of beneficial organisms present, especially in the soil. These populations provide many benefits to the tree, including hosting predators and competitors of insects that might damage your tree, and microorganisms that improve soil conditions.

Prune as needed

Young trees often benefit from pruning that can direct the development of their structure to be both structurally sound and aesthetically appealing. Mature trees may also need to be pruned for structural development, as well as for clearance from buildings or pathways. Ideally, the pruning of live material for these purposes is done more frequently, removing less material, and making smaller cuts, rather than infrequently, making large cuts and removing large amounts of material.

Address insect and disease problems

If you think your tree might have an insect or disease problem, have it inspected in person by an arborist. While many insects or diseases may be small enough in number to go without direct treatment, any pathogen present should be at least monitored by a professional. If the damage is extensive enough, a careful and limited use of pesticide may be warranted.

Watch for these signs of problems:

• Damage by insects or disease of more than 20% of the leaf surface area
• Heaving soil around the roots in wet and windy conditions
• Dieback of branch tips throughout the tree
• Leaf curling or damage in large areas of the tree
• Sticky, shiny, or black spots under the leaves of the tree
• Large wounds in the stems or trunk
• Cracks in stems
• Dieback of large roots near the trunk